Showing posts with label rapa Nui. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rapa Nui. Show all posts

Easter island - the information that's not in the guide books

Easter Island – the information that’s not in the guide books..












Not to be missed:-
Hanga Roa waterfront - Head to Pea restaurant, grab a cold drink or lunch out on the terrace – make the most of the shade, cool sea breeze whilst watching the locals surf and don’t forget to look out for the turtles swimming just below the terrace.





Tongariki for sunrise– don’t be put off by the weather, it’s beautiful regardless. Arrive early to get a good spot. Beware to horses and cattle on the road, especially when driving in the dark.





Tahai for sunset, take a picnic and sit on the grass (be careful of nipping ants) amongst tourists and locals alike to enjoy the sunset. Walking distance from town.





Ovahue beach – make some time to take a swim here, as its not in the main guide books its quite likely you will have this beautiful pink sand beach all to yourself.





Rano Raraku, Orongo & Anakena beach – nothing new here, all these places should be on every visitors agenda, but visit them early morning to avoid the tour buses and big groups. Check opening hours as they do vary.
























Poike – another early morning needed for this one if you are here during the height of summer to make the most of cooler temperatures. Pack lots of water and maybe a picnic. Come off the main road onto a dirt track at the base, drive up until you get to a barbed wire fence, leave your car here as they are banned on this part of the island. Take the coast/cliff side route up between Maunga Tea Tea and Maunga Paretic, shortly coming through this gap you will find an Ahu and a Moai – Motu Toremo Hiua buried to his nose. Continue on this route and if you’re feeling energetic continue past the trees. On your return, take a higher route and look out for the petroglyphs, though very faded are worth a gander.





Inca style ruins – head out to the other side of the airport (take the road towards Orongo then branch left) to see the progression of Ahu building and the similarities to Inca styles.






Ana Kaitangata (cannibal cave) – at the bottom of Orongo, next to the children’s play park; climb down the rocky steps and sit quietly within the cave listening to the waves crashing on the rocks outside and looking at the cave paintings.






Te Peu – like a visit to Mars! Take the rough and bumpy road up the east coast (north of Hanga Roa) to Te Peu to escape people, see a different landscape and a little visited area. A fun off road drive assuming you have a 4x4 or similar.

Advice and useful information:-

How long? - Do not listen to the travel agencies that tell you 3 days is enough in this phenomenal place, if you can afford to stay longer; do. Even 7 days was not long enough and we crammed every day with activities mostly rising at 6am to fit it all in. If you can, avoid the organised tours – even with only 3 days you will fit more in, see more and learn more by buying the companion to Easter Island guide and renting a car. To really enjoy the island and have some time out to swim/snorkel/sunbathe a minimum of a week is required. After all, the journey, expense and isolation of the island makes it a once in a lifetime opportunity so try to see as much as you can.

Flights – Apparently it is common for flights to be delayed, so this is one of the situations where you really should re-confirm your flight to save a long stay in a fairly mundane airport. Also, to save confusion, the island to us is Easter Island, but it is also known as Rapa Nui and Isla de Pascua, so when you’re checking in, look for one of these names.

Best guide book? – A guide to Easter Island by James Grant Peterkin. Written by a Scottish guy who now lives locally after having originally travelled to the island to study their unique linguistic situation, Easter Island is the only place where Spanish is spoken alongside a Polynesian language. The book gives information on tour bus times (so you know how to avoid being in the same place as them), best time of day/light for photography along with an excellent account of the history of each area and must dos. A really well written book that will give you more information than most group tours! It can be purchased in most souvenir shops on the main street.

Shopping – shop for drinks, food and souvenirs as far away from the main strip as possible, the further you go the cheaper it is – ranging from a massive 2600 pesos in the centre to 690 pesos out of town for a can of diet coke! The shopkeepers definitely charge more to tourists and its hard to argue, even if you are fluent in Spanish as mostly there are no prices marked on items.

Eating – Food and drink availability in town fluctuates for popular items as cargo ship deliveries are relied upon for most produce. Expect to pay well over the odds for anything that is not grown or produced on the island. The cheapest alcohol is Mahena beers/stouts (brewed on the island);





cheapest food is Mahe Mahe or Rapa Nui fish both of which are caught locally and try to drink locally bottle water rather than imported. Tap water is safe to drink, but has quite a strong metallic taste which can be unpleasant.

Business opening hours – though there is not strictly a Siesta; shops and businesses tend to close from 1pm-5pm each day and as Easter Island is a predominately Catholic community nearly everything is closed on Sundays. During Siestas in peak summer, you will find many of the locals in Roa Bay surfing and the kids on boogie boards.

Swimming – stick to the ‘sea-pool’ (left of Pea restaurant, Roa Bay) during high water times in Roa Bay unless you’re going for a surf, the currents/rips are very strong and there are no lifeguards. Grab a snorkel/mask and go turtle spotting. Anakena beach has a part-time lifeguard, you will know when they are on duty as a green flag will be raised, this is the only location with a lifeguard. Pile on the suncream or wear a rash vest to protect yourself from sunburn.

Wild animals – there is nothing to be afraid of, be careful of sea urchins when swimming in rocky areas. Horses and cattle roam free around the whole island and dogs are everywhere in town, do not feed them or they will follow you for the rest of your stay.
Maps – during our stay we found that NONE of the maps we had brought with us or got in town were accurate. There are many roads un-marked and a few that are on the maps that don’t exist at all! In addition, I believe we saw one proper road sign on the whole island and even that had us confused, go with you instinct, if you’re staying on the main routes then you can’t really get lost as the main road does a full loop.

Mobile phones – within the town limits there is plenty of reception, but there is none at all outside the town limits so make sure your rental car has a spare tyre, jack and that you take plenty of water with you.

Car rental – If you feel confident steer away from the big car rental companies and head for the smaller outfits. They tend to be much cheaper, we paid approximately US$30 p/day (Jan 2011) whereas the larger rental companies quoted US$80 p/day. If you do rent a car, be aware that there is currently no such thing as car insurance on the island so if you have an accident expect to front up the cash. Read your contract agreement carefully, there could be no upper limit for what you will owe in this scenario.

Driving- there is only 1 petrol station on the island and it is located on the outskirts of Hanga Roa (near the airport) so fill up before you go out for the day. Approximately 10% of the roads on Easter Island are tarmac and even then they have huge pot holes, the rest of the roads are dirt tracks, rent a 4x4 or similar, you need something more than the clearance of a regular car to get over the rocks and decent suspension to keep your spine intact! Mind the wild horses and cows, they roam free and are often in the middle of the road.

Definitely take:-
A good camera and spare memory.
High factor suncream, the sun is very strong , though suncream is sold here it is very expensive. .
Snorkel and mask – it is possible to hire this equipment from the local dive schools in Hanga Roa but I feel safe in saying it is a rip off at 20,000 pesos for the day (£30-00) when for 25,000 pesos you can go scuba diving.
Pesos rather than US $ - thought US $ are widely accepted, the exchange rate is far better when paying in Chilean Pesos.
National Park entrance fee – US$60pp this is collected at Orongo or Rao Raraku, you will be issued with a ticket which you should keep with you at all times.

Location:Easter island, Chile

Wild night

26/1/11
Thud, thud, BAM.. What? What the hell was that? Jo & I are now wide awake, check the clock, it's 3:15am.. Clip clop clip clop.. I'm frozen to the bed.. Jo climbs out and peers through the curtain.. There's a horses bottom right outside the sliding door on our balcony.. She runs back to bed.. Is it the horse that attacked our car yesterday morning? Its the same colour, looks the same.. Is it? we lie there both trying not to move incase it decides to come any closer..
Eventually we drift off back to sleep when the howling starts, if I haven't mentioned already there are literally hundreds of wild dogs on this island and the packs have obviously moved closer to the hotel, this followed by our disabled cockrel that has taken residence next to the bathroom window, by day he is silent, by night he obviously is very confused as he spends all his time stalking around cockrelling away..
Morning comes, after many hours of lying awake and we find this outside the door..




- Posted whilst on the road
Location:Easter island

Diving disaster

26/1/11
Once again you are probably starting to see a theme in our travels?
The ultimate dream for Jo, diving at Easter island! We book her in at Orca dive centre (if you know Jo then you will also know that Orcas are her fav so it seemed like fate..).
Made sure we left early from the hotel to have a nice stroll down to the harbour, me being fairly ignorant about diving asking lots of questions along the way...
We arrive and I hang around whilst Jo gets kitted up, there's lots of comaradery amongst the staff and 3 clients (including Jo) her five finger shoes get paraded around by one of the staff with much amusement making sure he shows all the local shop keepers along the way.,
A rather well built (my mum & grumpy would say 'strong') chap went to prep the panga (boat) and bring it round to the main wall - FYI as usual the killcord is just this weird red stringy thing that obviously gets in the way thus is either cut off or tucked out of reach making it very useful?!? The conditions are pretty rough round here as you have to go right through a break (where people surf, if that helps you picture the size of the waves) to get out to the dive site (are you seeing the relevance of my concern over the lack of killcord yet?). Jo and the other 2 divers receive a briefing and are pushed towards the panga with their gear already loaded on.
The set up of this gear was fairly questionable at this point..but I suppose you cant expect too much on one of the most isolated islands in the world..
They steam out through the waves catching some fairly serious air that causes the air tanks to be thrown across the boat narrowly missing jos right foot!
Arrive at the dive site, normal procedure would be to buddy up and check all your kit, not here though - strapping a weight belt around jos waist that could sink a cruiseliner and sticking some cheap snorkelling fins to her feet they push her over the side with her BCD fully inflated resembling the feeling of a boa constricter wrapped around her rib cage (normal procedure to have BCD slightly inflated).
Attempting to focus on where she was and the excitement of the dive they headed down towards the sea bed at an unfortunately fast pace, after about 20mins and reaching about 18metres they start getting close to the cavern they had come to see..
What happens next is surely a thing that would put anyone off diving for life..
Jo's regulator (the thing you breath through) closed shut.. She couldn't breath.. Looking around through the scratched goggles (school kit) she finally spotted the dive guide over 8m away and not paying any attention as he was completely focused on the other divers.. What's next? Two choices 1) emergency ascent (caesar) or 2) test to see if the octopus (emergency regulator) is working.. Now if option 2 was taken there is a risk that it wont work either.. If you try it and it doesnt work you have just exhaled all the remaining air in your lungs which makes it impossible to do an emergency ascent without getting the bends.. So gladly Jo went for option 1..
Once on the surface the dive guide reappeared a short time later asking why she was up there.. They had no idea! Eventually through various dive sign language she explained that her regulator had stopped working and was recovered into the boat..
If I had known about all of this at the time when I went down to meet her I would have gone mental! Bloody mother F**king irresponsible, careless ar*eholes..
No wonder Jo waits till we are far away to tell me things.

- Posted whilst on the road
Location:Easter island

Horse attack

25/1/11
With excitement we got up at 6am ready to take the dark drive to Tongariki, The most famous collection of Moai on the island to watch the sunrise.. We were warned to take the road slowly due to large amounts of wild cows and horses (a bit like the new forest) that roam freely around Easter island. So we made sure we left plenty of time to cruise over there. After taking a wrong turn (this island may be small but there are literally no road signs and tons of roads that aren't on the map) we realised our error and swung our little terios around. Having remembered seeing quite a few horses and cattle at the side of the road we took the drive at a steady pace. Coming across a group of horses in the road we slowed to a stop assuming they would wander out of the way.. What came next was more than a surprise! One of the horses with a glint in it's eye obviously shocked by the head lights of the car bolted directly towards the drivers door smashing into it! In absolute horror I put my foot down and hurtled away with the now detached wing mirror smashing against the door hanging on by a single wire.. Too afraid to stop for a variety of reasons including previous experiences with psyco local drivers and cows with horns we carried on driving through the darkness in a mix of shock and laughter until we found the turning for the road we were originally supposed to be on; pulling over we surveyed the damage.. The car obviously came off worse than the horse as it totally ripped off the wing mirror and put a massive dent in both the front and rear drivers side doors, plus where we had driven away in such haste the area surrounding the wing mirror is all scratched..






Pulling the wing mirror inside the window we headed on in the darkness with dust blowing in our eyes through the now wide open window praying that no further wild animal would throw itself at us.. With still a way to go the light was starting to creep across the east of the island as we continued to try and complete our original view.. As time was against us we pulled over at a single Moai and absorbed the spectacular sunrise with the hope that we will reach our intended destination later in the week.






As we sit here now writing this we are waiting to hear the cost of our horse damage as there is no such thing as car insurance here.. We will let you know the outcome..


- Posted whilst on the road

Location:Easter island

Our Santiago observations

- 20 raw chickens for sale in a grannies style wheely basket, no ice, no wrapping- very tempting purchase




- totally unsubtle pointing, staring & laughing at jos feet by EVERYONE (she admittedly is wearing five fingers shoes but still..)
- beautiful green spaces & fountains at every turn
- massive fish market with the most incredible assortment, but again no ice, no chilled areas, no covers just out there sweating in 90 degree heat
- the kindness & gentle nature of the locals
- excellent bus stop signs?! A plastic bag sellotaped to a tree, the only giveaway for a newcomer is a group of people randomly stood in a line on the street



- be wary not to take a wrong turn outside the fish market as you will shortly end up in a whore market.. Not that Jo noticed, rather she thought groups of ladies were just gathered chatting on the street.. Bless.
- traffic queue entrepreneurs.. Juggling in the middle of the road..

Santiago in a nutshell - definitely worth a visit & we would definitely come back..
Currently sat at the airport having got up at 5am for an 8am flight to Easter island aka Rapa Nui aka isla de pascua (very confusing when you're asking for directions to check in!) - flight has been delayed for 4hours, very boring!
I have seen people get cross at the airport but nothing quite like this morning where security had to be called as a guy in a yellow jacket was leaning right over the counter swinging at the check-in clerk whilst his wife jumped onto the luggage belt and tried to get around.. All because our flight is delayed?!?




Our bag is that grey one right in the middle - all stacked on one airport trolley I suppose it's the quickest way to transport the baggage to the plane without a truck..